“Many Young People Hate Fashion”

There used to be a time when celebrity guests added lustre to a fashion show, like a glamorous accessory. Now, they’re the whole look. With Y2K still lingering as a trend, what a coup it was for Donatella Versace to get Paris Hilton to close her Milan show. So focused was all coverage on her that I was hard-pressed to see a single other picture of the collection. Likewise, Kim Kardashian at Dolce & Gabbana: she “curated” the show, and also dominated its coverage. 

In a bear market, it’s unsurprising that designers are aggressively courting profit by harnessing the power of tried and tested celebrities who are proven to shift stock. But they should be careful who they pay for.

Customers – Gen Z in particular – are cynical about brands who align themselves with celebrities with whom there is no natural affinity: it looks forced and fake, and Gen Z values authenticity.

Jerry Hall at Yves Saint Laurent: natural. Michaela Coel at Prada: a coup. But the era of the carelessly curated celebrity front row is over. If I was a PR, I’d be checking socials for signs of backlash against brands for aligning themselves to the “wrong” type of fame. As Maria Grazia Chiuri said backstage after her Dior show: “many young people hate fashion”. They’re a slippery customer, so it pays to get a grip.